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January 16, 2005

The Importance of Mise en Place: or how to be a jackass in 5 excruciating hours

After I wrote the title I realized the first part of it sounded all pretentious and Thomas Keller-like. I also realized there are a number of "day in the life of a chef" things published. But that's the key word. Published. In order to get people to buy your editor helps craft this persona, which may be an extension of yourself, or may be just a projection of what you'd like to be. The problem is obviously you become one-dimensional, whether you're a wanna-be badass like Anthony Bourdain, an old world style craftsman like Paul Bertolli or an arch old queen like Jeremiah Tower. The most real example I've read has been "The Wife of the Chef" by Courtney Febbroriello". So what I'm saying in this blog isn't something new, but hopefully something honest.

As for mise en place, I should never have quit the Webelos, perhaps if I had made it to Scout I'd be always prepared. Yesterday, after getting sidetracked by Juxtapoz magazine and checking out a wonderful bunch of pop surrealists, I get to work late, to be faced with a a letter complaining about the restaurant. We get one about every year or so, so hopefully this takes care of us till at least 2006. Not a great way to start the day and I'm trying to change the dessert menu. The circus people are in the restaurant doing rigging for our anniversary dinner/performance and they have the inevitable few questions. The decisions on the new desserts went quickly but the prep was daunting. Part of making everything in house with a minimal crew means I end up trying to do more than we  actually can and am constantly pushing myself and staff.

Service starts, desserts still aren't finished, panna cotta is not setting up properly and the freezer which has been steadily increasing in temperature, keeps increasing. Gelatos are soupy. The repair guy was just there yesterday for another refrigerator, I had asked him to look at the freezer but he didn't have time.

And we're busy as hell. In the past MLK weekend hasn't been busy but not this year. So, I proceed to be stressed out and a total jerk to my waiters. All because I'm not prepared. I should have added this to my list of resolutions. Be prepared. Always. And if you can't be prepared, at least be nice.

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