Four Star Digression

Last Sunday we got some major press. Not the cover of Food & Wine or anything but for us, major press. We saw it was out the morning we were leaving for our monthly SF trip. So, when we got to the city we decided we needed to celebrate. The recent review of The Ritz Carlton stuck in my mind, especially the description of the spot prawn sashimi, with deep fried shrimp heads, fresh wasabi and the two slurries of salt & lemon juice.

When I made the reservation they asked if we were celebrating a special occasion. I said, "Yes, we just got a glowing review in the ....". They asked if we had any dietary restrictions or allergies and at first I said no but called back immediately after to say that we didn't drink alcohol, thinking they might send a glass of champagne or something to mark the special occasion.

When we arrived the staff was wonderfully attentive, despite my lack of a jacket. We decided to try the 9 course tasting meal, since it was described as being two entirely different courses for each person, customized to our preferences. The GM has some fussy food likes and dislikes, which were handled with aplomb by the staff at Nobu last year and we figured the Ritz should be used to dealing with special requests.

I'm not going to describe all the food because I took no notes, and frankly the food was mostly unmemorable. I wish we had had the experience  Fatemeh  & C. did. Instead I'm going to talk about how they handled the evening.

There was no mention of our "special occasion". Now why would you ask for the information if you're not going to do anything with it? I'm sure the reservationist had a high-speed connection right in front of him. Using my name and the and the publication's name he'd have seen we were restaurateurs. Given that information they had an opportunity to really make an impression and wow us with something that we'd talk about for years.

Then the alcohol thing. Again, if you are armed with this information why would you present wine lists ? Or send out food with alcohol based gelees, which happened at least twice during the meal.

The 9 courses were basically selections from the current menu. Nothing wrong with that but the way it was represented was a bit different. Like we'd be getting something other than what was listed. The sashimi was good but not the experience Bauer raved about and the flavors in all the courses were exceedingly subtle.

Two thoughts occurred. One: we are coarse, peasant-like Philistines with palates like tongue depressors or Two: the chef is deliberately toning down the food in order to not overpower a wine a diner might order. I also realized we had had a similar reaction to the food when we tried Charles Nob Hill when Ron Siegal was chef there.

We left still on a high from our recent good news, but while we could have been exhilarated we were both a little disappointed. And certainly much poorer.

Don't get me wrong. None of the food was bad and there were some fun moments. The candy cart at the end of the meal is a nice touch. The technique in the kitchen was impeccable. Tiny brunoise lemon zest in the sauce (twice actually), wonderful texture on the panna cotta, excellent presentation of the salmon course with the sauce running down the special steamer plate to form an additional course below the original plate. But they seem unlike Ben and Karen Barker, afraid of flavor. My sous chef joked that perhaps we missed the part on the menu which read "flavor, $50 supplement".

The real quibble I have is the lack of personal attention. I felt as though I had been through the "special occasion" machine. The service was attentive, but soulless. When we hear about people's celebrations we try to wow them on the fly as it were. Actually we try to wow everyone, but when hear people are celebrating we try to make it more special, even if it's just something like making sugar numbers to decorate their dessert to commemorate an anniversary. If we had a whole day to prepare and if were billing ourselves as a special occasion restaurant I'd like to think we'd treat visiting cooks and general managers like royalty. And if they didn't drink we'd respect that in every way possible.

Does this sound nit-picky? Perhaps it's just me but when I ask someone a question I'd like to think I really listen to the answer and hopefully respond appropriately.

I didn't post this to slam the Ritz. I'm certainly not saying don't go there. I do think they blew the details though.

I also realized I am just not a four star kind of guy. I sometimes have fantasies about opening another "better" (read pricier, smaller) place but I realized that is just not who I am. I don't want a hushed atmosphere, where people feel intimidated (our waiter at the Ritz's words, not mine). I want a lively place where people feel great about themselves. Hopefully that's what we have.

Our great news continued with the release of the 2006 Zagat. Although our food numbers remained the same (I'll go into the Zagat ceiling in another post), our service numbers climbed higher with the staff being described as "hustling hotties". We're closing for Halloween to have a staff party. Anyone who knows us and our staff will know why. We're having t-shirts made to give them  which read either <our name> Hustling Hottie, or Zagat Rated Hustling Hottie. What's your vote ?

Back to the pig soon.

Comments

[jsp]

This past friday a man called to make a reservation and to ask how we do things. He explained it was his wife's birthday and wanted to make it special. He wanted to know if there was a special table or something like that. I explained we take reservations for large parties only and told him when the major rush was and how to avoid a wait. I told him all our tables and guests were special and he would be treated as such. I told him I would be doing the seating this weekend and if he introduced himself I could be sure to seat him at a table off the beaten track. He never did introduce himself. They did come during the "rush" and were seated at a table that is harder to seat, because it isn't touching a window (but it is a very good spot). I only know that he came because he left a note on the comment card thanking us for making it a special and memorable evening. Had he told me the age his wife was turning and alerted me to their arrival I would have seen if Chef could make sugar numbers for her dessert. All this for an eighth of the price at the Ritz. why am I saying this? Because I think we treat every "regular" customer like they are special and at the Ritz the "special occasion" customer was just regular.

[Pim]

Congratulations on your major press! Next time, try a different four star place, would you? ;-)

[haddock]

We will Pim, we will. The Ritz was an almost spur of the moment thing. By the time we've driven down to SF driving another few hours for dinner is a little daunting. But I swear....

[johng]

I'm sure that reservationists is pre-programmed to hear only the words birthday and anniversary when he asks the question about special events. You could say yeah the biopsy on that thing they took out came back negative, and it's not going to register.

On wine, I think you raise a good point. We had Siegel's food about 3 years back at Masa's and it was really good, but not good enough for me to still remember any dish but one --and that was a really fatty slice of Toro paired with a wonderful old Riesling. Without the memory of the wine, I doubt I would remember it.

RE the wine list -- I think it's proper to give you one. Especially if you're known to be a chef you might want to see what they have.

[Dr. Biggles]

Hmmm, Ritz. I don't think I've eaten any place that sounded that fancy. And speaking of fancy, I'm going to smoke a goat leg for dinner.

Biggles

[Brett]

I vote for "Zagat-rated Hustling Hottie" on the back and the name of your restaurant on the front. Or vice-versa. I'm also not a 4-star kind of guy, but I would second Pim's recommendation.

[jsp]

Dr. Biggles - I haven't met you yet but I already like you. You crack me up.

[Dr. Biggles]

Hey JSP,

I smoked a Goat Leg for dinner. I say, MORE GOAT FOR EVERYONE !!!

[haddock]

johng:

The wine list was a minor quibble and indeed we nearly always look at them to see what other places are offering. The point is though if they had had the information that we were restaurateurs it could have been handled differently by acknowledging that we don't drink but as professionals might want to enjoy the wine list anyway. Like I said a minor quibble, the wine-based gelees on our food were the real mis-step.

You're probably right about the reservationists but then why does the place enjoy such a distinguished service reputation?

Biggles:

Where did you find a paper big enough for a whole goat leg?

[Dr. Biggles]

Haddock,

Naw, papers don't work well with goat, too squishy. It's far easier to use a b0ng and small torch.
Jeez, I wonder if I could use the b0ng water for a marinade?

Biggles

[Jennifer]

I agree with you that a higher standard is required of a place that touts its superior service. The alcohol-based gelees were definitely out of bounds.
I've been meaning to ask you to e-mail me the name of your restaurant so that I can drive up for dinner, and now that you're in Zagat, I *definitely* have to come (smile)! E-mail me at: iheartnovato (at) gmail.com

[Fatemeh]

Wow. I'm SO sorry to hear that.

Of our 18 courses, I think there are 4 or 5 that I will always clearly remember; but the wine pairings certainly helped in at least two of those cases.

I'm glad to hear you didn't let it ruin your natural "buzz"--I expect nothing less of you!