Celebrating Bird

As we approach our day of national excess I've been thinking about the nature of our holidays. I had thought during Halloween that we'd be a lot better off if everyone dressed in their costumes all the time. Of course, anyone who knows me knows this wouldn't be a big leap for me. In fact my biggest dilemma every Halloween is wearing something that people will recognize as a costume rather than just my regular clothes.

Wouldn't it be nicer if we ate together regularly with people we love (and loathe) like at Thanksgiving, or we were loving and attentive to our partners like at Valentine's Day all the time?

I suppose these days, for most people, the holidays are an easy out. A duty to perform and by so doing getting some absolution for the rest of the year. Because in this business you rarely see holiday spirit.

That's why we close for Thanksgiving and Christmas. It started because in our first year of business we had contracted for a massive New Year's Eve 2000 party. Most of crew were young drinkers and we wanted no arguments and no no-shows, so we said we'd close for those two holidays but New Year's attendance was mandatory. In subsequent years we've kept it that way for other reasons.

The aftermath of the holiday is bad enough. People who have little affection for each other forced by societal expectations to spend, gasp, an entire weekend with each other, who, not being able to say what they really want to their father-in-law, take it out on the waiter.

We also didn't want to have to throw our entire routine into chaos, particularly for Thanksgiving. A completely different menu for one day, trying to encompass everyone's traditions and favorites. No thanks.

I feel particularly sorry for my friends the food writers who have to report on every season's celebrations. Yikes! How boring can that get? I'd love to be a fly on the wall during the editorial calendar meeting at Gourmet or Food & Wine when the turkey issue is discussed.

So this year, as we have been doing for the past 6, we will be heading to my mom's place, about an hour away from here. Although there will be a significant number of people there (last years count in the high 60's, the year before 92) I only have to bring one food item.

Christmas, that's a whole other story.

Comments

[Dr. Biggles]

Maybe F&W should be discussing Gravy instead of turkey. MmMM, gravy.

Biggles

[Kudzu]

And I thought my family (including inlaws and outlaws) was going to have a big do this year with 35!! I would love to hear about your mother's gathering, which I am assuming must be an outdoor affair.

And thanks for your sympathy for foodwriters. You're right -- it can be a drag to do holiday-related columns and features, though now and then it turns out to be a pleasure when I can base the writing on more personal material, or share recipes from people I care about (you know who).