It's Big, It's Heavy, It's Wood

A bit over 2 years ago I made a commitment to improve our desserts. After reading yet another review of a restaurant which said the desserts seemed like an after thought I vowed that wouldn't be the case for us. I, like most savory oriented chefs, gave dessert short shrift. It's not that I don't like to eat dessert, I do. But they are a much more demanding mistress than the rest of the kitchen, i.e. they're harder to fix when you screw them up. And I hate for anyone to know I screw up.

Having 2 uncalibrated ovens and a collection of warped sheet pans didn't help much. Cookies would burn, tuiles would break, custards would refuse to set. All of which becomes a self-fulfilling prophecy.

So I slowly started amassing new equipment and tools. Demi-sphere molds, tomato paste cans for mousse rings, circular molds, flat sheet pans reserved for pastry use only and a new, calibrated oven. And I read. And listened. And ate.

Fortunately for me savory and pastry kitchens all over the place are crossing each others paths in ways they never have before. Herb accents are finding their way into creams, custards and sorbets, sugar is being reduced, letting fruit flavors shine and American interest in cheese appears to be higher than it's been since the 19th century.

Two years later I'm feeling much more confident in the pastry kitchen.  More importantly I've built trust with our customers. This is crucial because it's well accepted that dessert, being the last thing (other than coffee) a customer has is what leaves the impression. A so-so meal followed by a killer dessert will be more fondly remembered than a great meal ending with a lackluster tart. It's not that they didn't trust me before, but getting them enrolled in trying new things takes time. After conversations with one of the managers at Citizen Cake where she described dealing with scared customers who only wanted what they saw on Rachael Ray I felt better.

Participating in our mushroom festival helped build that trust. Candy Cap Creme Brulee with Spicy Chocolate Bark is a good talking point for the waiters. They can ask the customer "when have you had a dessert with mushrooms and cayenne pepper which you've enjoyed." Creme Brulee is ubiquitous enough that people will order it, no matter what you put in it.

Another idea born during festival time is Candy Cap Meringues (oh, for those of you who aren't mycologists, Candy Caps are mushrooms with a strong maple aroma). The dried Candy Caps are ground and mixed into the meringue before baking.

What I'm really leading up to is telling everyone that after 2 years of sweet concentration I finally had a good idea. One that drew on classical technique, a classical dessert even, with some modern touches that I'm proud of, that I haven't seen elsewhere (in other words, I didn't steal the idea), and most importantly that people buy. Are you ready? It's an individual Buche de Noel with Candy Cap Meringue mushrooms and Doug Fir gelato. We call it the Yule Log though because most of our clientele wouldn't know a buche de Noel if it fell on them. I was considering calling it "It's Log" but knew most wouldn't get the Ren & Stimpy reference.

On the bottom of the plate I've got a layer of our hot fudge sauce with some cocoa nibs and dried cranberries, the buche itself is pretty standard, a cocoa genoise with a bittersweet ganache and Valhrona buttercream, the meringues I've told you about and the gelato has essence of Douglas Fir. One of the waiters said it was the most Christmasy gelato possible. I don't think I'd want to eat an entire cone of it but it works with all the other elements.

And like I said, people are buying it. In fact last night one of our favorite families came in again, after hearing about it but being too full the night before. I'll post a picture when I take one.

We'll be headed to SF this Sunday and if there's anyone who wants to get together for a bite, email us. Our trip two weeks ago was low-profile, mostly shopping for supplies we can't get up here and visiting with family, relying on old favorites. But now with Sam asking to help select the best new SF restaurants we've got to try some of these new places. Plus we've got a few things to celebrate, a personal milestone for the GM and my birthday approaching. Which leads me to the Knife's Edge contest. I'll make that my next post. I've been trying to think of a suitable prize. When I do I'll announce the rules.

Comments

[Kudzu]

Oh, Holy Night! That holiday dessert sounds wonderful. Didn't know about Doug fir as an herbal until a glass of sparkling wine with a sprig appeared in a restaurant not far from yours. I think it was worth a two-year wait to pull this one together, haddock. Well done.

[kitchenmage]

That sounds marvelous, and I applaud the douglas fir gelato. I had douglas fir sorbet on a recent visit to the Herbfarm (god, i say that like i go there a lot, don't i? this was only the second time) and it was downright ethereal. I've been eyeing my trees ever since.

[H.Alexander Talbot]

If you do not mind, what is your source for the douglas fir essence? I think we could really have fun with it.
-Alex

[haddock]

For this batch I used essence from http://www.libertynatural.com/ but next time I may just use a branch. There are, despite a few company's efforts at eradication, still quite a few near me.

[kitchenmage]

Alex, you have essence of douglas fir right outside your door! The Herbfarm steeps fresh fir tips in a sugar syrup (recipe here http://www.uniqueinns.com/innlight/cuisine_woodinville_wa.html). I asked if it made any real difference whether it was little spring tips and was told they were better, but I had it in November and it was damned good.

[Tana]

I love your blog.