Seafood Summit 2006

In years past the big topic at culinary conferences focused on sustainability was "How do we get the mainstream (media and industry) to take us seriously?" We've certainly figured that out. You can't open a paper or magazine without seeing buzzwords like organic, sustainable, natural, etc. repeated over and over and increasingly applied to things which may have none of the those qualities.

Years ago Joan Gussow, professor emeritus at Columbia University, said of the debate about national organic standards essentially, watch out how we proceed with this because I can see the day when the organic Twinkie arrives. That day has come. Agribusiness has been able to enter the organic market. Safeway has their own line of organic products. And many of the small farmers I know and work with are considering dropping their certification because they can't afford the fees, manage the paperwork and still have time to farm and money to support their families. They're not intending to do anything differently. They just won't be labeling their stuff organic.

I suppose if there is going to be agribusiness in the first place it's better for them to be "organic" than not. Reducing the amount of chemicals spread over the planet is undoubtedly a good thing. I am however more in favor of the concept "organic" in a more philosophical sense. One which allows a small farmer to make a living. One which doesn't embrace mono-cropping. One which understands we are dealing with complex systems and that while not using chemical herbicides and fertilizers is part of good practice, it doesn't start and end there. In other words, a standard that doesn't allow for the organic Twinkie.

There are a multitude of debatable items contained within the above sentiments. I'm not going to even try to address the very real issues about global food production. You can find scientists who claim studies and models which support any point of view, from intense, genetically modified mono-culture is the only way we are going to feed the global population to those who say there is no shortage of food, that the problem is all in the distribution. Some support the idea of the Green Revolution as being just that, others maintain the only thing green about that "revolution" is the steady stream of profits Dow, Monsanto and other chemical companies reap. If there was an easy, clear-cut scientific way to proceed fine. But there's not. So we're left with choosing the science which supports our moral or spiritual world-view.

Both Wal-Mart & Darden Restaurants (Red Lobster, Olive Garden and others) have announced their intent to vastly increase the amount of MSC (Marine Stewardship Council) certified seafood sold in their operations. Whole Foods says they only apply the word sustainable to MSC certified seafood. Interestingly, although they now claim to be a fully independent non-profit organization, MSC was created through a partnership between the WWF and Unilever, the world's largest buyer of seafood. Their brands include, Bertolli, Country Crock, Hellman's, Wish-Bone, Bird's-Eye, Knorr, Lipton and Slim-Fast. These are just the familiar to US consumers food companies, they also own a variety of soaps like Lux, Pond's and Dove as well as Vaseline. Call me cynical but when I see the world's largest anything supporting a philosophy which could be seen as cutting into their bottom line I get a little suspicious. Particularly after hearing the guy from Unilever speak. And after him the guy who just left Carrefour, the number one retailer in Europe, number two worldwide. That's right, right behind Wal-Mart. They both said they wouldn't be paying any more for sustainable products than for non sustainable.

WHAT? If they're not going to pay, who is? Because it costs more to do things sustainably, period. So, if you're a fisherman selling to any of these companies your costs go up because they want you to meet certain standards but they won't pay you any more. I'm sorry but any definition of sustainability which doesn't include economic sustainability for all concerned doesn't work.

I'm trying hard not to tread the moral high ground here. I'm sure there are great and dedicated scientists working for the MSC who really believe they are doing the right thing. And maybe they are. I can't help but draw an analogy from Noam Chomsky though. When talking about censorship in the media he points out that while no one may tell RW Apple what to write, no one has to. He is only in the position he's in because he is thoroughly indoctrinated and self-censoring. Perhaps the same might be true with some of MSC's scientists.

I'll write about the particulars of the summit tomorrow. The main impression though was that the new activism seems to be based on cooperation, which is nice. But when you are partnering with corporations who issue statements which read they will protect species "when practical" how much conservation are you actually achieving? Aim higher my friends. Aim higher.

Comments

[Jennifer]

Wow. This is such a complicated topic, is it not? I think of the consumer (often myself) standing at the seafood counter of her local market, trying to make sense of it all. What to buy? How to make the right choice? It is oftentimes dizzying. I want to make the best choice, but that is often a whole lot trickier than it seems.

The MSC was created with Unilever? Oh... no... I'm willing to pay more for the good stuff, but I do so with the express intention that money to go to the fishermen, or the farmers,or the laborers... NOT into the pockets of some Big Company CEO.

What to do?

[Kudzu]

haddock--

Thanks for the thoughtful report.

When I finished reading it I thought of a story I just wrote that included a self-sustaining community in the early 1900's, when everyone farmed, fished, hunted, and foraged. I don't pretend that we can do this -- as I sit here at a computer! -- but it's a lovely fantasy when I find out the big bad businesses behind what we self-righteously purchase.

What's a mother to do?

[shuna fish lydon]

Oh the fishes. I feel for them. And then I get really overwhelmed. But on some other level I feel like the seas has been here longer than all of us and there will be a way that it will go on for all our nastiness. Meaning that I live as thoughtfully as I can manage, educate friends and those around me, and try to go on myself.

In a very different way my friend Patrick at Root Cap has been writing about how we operate in the natural world. I beg you to take a look there.

And also consider coming down for some of the talks at UC Berkeley--- the topics and dates are on Life Begins at 30.