Knife's Edge - Restaurant Rants & Raves

Zagat 2007

The 2007 Zagat survey for the SF Bay Area is out. I could be mistaken but it seems that with sites like Chowhound and eGullet and the ever-growing community of bloggers (food and others) that this is less of a big deal than it used to be. I certainly didn't hear anything about a repeat of the Zagat forum on hospitality that happened a number of years back. It was actually a pretty good bunch of panels and at least a few things some of the presenters said have stuck with me. Notably, Nick Peyton saying he looks for dysfunctional (why isn't it spelled disfunctional?) people when hiring servers, saying that "people pleasers" tend to be more concerned that the diners are having a good time. And, someone from the Union Square Hospitality Group talking about hiring a "type" rather than hiring solely based on need or qualification. Every restaurant has a personality and that personality needs to be balanced. If the entire staff is upbeat and cheerful you might need someone more serious to add another note to the restaurant's personality. These remarks have helped when dealing with some of our difficult employees. Seeing their less desirable qualities as characteristics the restaurant needs (since we almost always seem to have one of a certain type) rather than character defects makes it easier to handle them.

Back to the Zagat. Even though its influence seems to have waned, early fall is still something of a nail-biting time for every restaurant listed in the guide because unlike Trip Advisor or a website, the ratings are there for the entire year. And because the survey respondents are encouraged to make "pithy" comments some of the snippets are less than flattering, even those which appear in the context of an overall good review.

I've written before about my feelings about the survey, particularly the sense that once numerical scores are established they don't seem to change much. I'm still curious how many responses are needed before you lose the triangle denoting low response (which we did this year) and how responses are tallied in the case of those with the triangle. It seems a lot easier to rack up high scores with low response. The tops for food in our area has low response and I'd bet the entire staff plus a few loyalists stuffed the ballot box. Not that the food isn't good but it definitely doesn't deserve the high ranking.

At any rate, there's much for us to love about this year's description of our place. And our numbers for service and decor went up a point. I'll leave it to you detectives to find and read.

Knobby Issues

The rehearsal dinner and wedding went fine for those who were so kind as to be concerned. There were a few telling moments but overall the GM came through emotionally unscathed. I have though, decided to write a letter to the half-sister, asking her what it is about our restaurant she doesn't like, as we are always wanting to improve. I'll wait a month or so since I don't want to infringe on the joy of her wedding in any way.

Now on to other things. A week ago I got a message from a woman associated with one of the giveaway magazines that plague this community. We have gone back and forth on advertising in these publications, and usually continue to place ads, sometimes for political reasons because we're not entirely confident that advertising actually works. Anyway the message was she was seeking a comp for a "reviewer". Now I'm sure you know the way these magazines work. If there is any content about specific businesses they are generally puff pieces written to assure continued advertising support. So the concept of a "reviewer" from this publication seemed a little odd.

I called her and found out that she and the "reviewer" had already been to dinner, paid in cash and she was looking to have the dinner comped. While I was trying to sort out how I was going to work this out bookkeeping-wise I asked who the "reviewer" was. When she named him I was appalled. Pim, commenting on someone else's blog, called a person a "knob". Great word. I usually like it when used in the context of food, like "add a knob of butter". However, the word when applied to a person goes a long way toward describing this guy. Add morally reprehensible, alcoholic and jerk and you're getting there. I told her I would call her back once I figured out how I would get her the comp.

After thinking about it I knew I didn't want this guy associated with our restaurant in any way. So I called her back and told her that I knew this "reviewer" had problems with me personally, I wasn't sure why, perhaps because his ex-wife enjoyed our restaurant or who knows, small town stuff... and that while I appreciated her thinking of us and wanting to include us in the magazine, I'd appreciate not having a review written by this knob. And no, I didn't call him a knob on the phone. As for the comp she hastened to assure me it wouldn't be necessary. I mailed her a gift certificate for dinner for two.

A few days passed and I decided I should call the editor of the magazine. Not to get this woman in trouble or to complain but just to ensure that the piece didn't get printed. I could easily see someone, when dealing with a jerk of this magnitude not wanting to tell the guy that we didn't want his "review" published. I explained my concerns to the editor, which he shared. He also thinks the guy is a knob. He also mightily disagreed with comped reviews, saying if you're going to do a review do it anonymously and honestly, if you're going to write a puff piece, ask the puffee what they'd like written. I stressed I didn't want to get anyone in trouble or to produce any further conflict, that I just didn't want the piece published. As it turns out the woman lives with the knob, so god knows what she's like.

The editor then asked if I remembered him asking if I might be interested in writing a food column. I did and he offered me the gig. Twice a year I think, or perhaps quarterly and they'll pay me a hundred bucks. First issue will be spring. In honor of getting the job perhaps I'll include a recipe which includes a knob of butter

Family Affair

While life is still good, there's a little something that is causing irritation so here we go, back to Mr Cranky. As some of you know, the GM's father and half-sister live a few miles away. As some of you also know, her relationship with both of these people is somewhat contentious. In a nutshell dad left the GM's mother, the GM and older sister when she was little to take up with a "new lady". They had a love child (the half-sister) who has basked in paternal love her whole life while the GM and her older sister have been consistently treated like second-class family. This is not to say he doesn't love them, just that he is oblivious to how his treatment of two of his progeny has affected not only them, but also the half-sibling. And while I've said the relationship has been contentious, there isn't actual acrimony and there is indeed a lot of love between all parties.

The GM moved here many years ago to pursue a reasonable adult relationship with these people and it has been a long time of frustration, tears, anger and resignation. Many people in town don't know that the GM is related to her father and half-sister and dad is a pretty well-known figure in these parts. I have mostly been on the sidelines (I've got my own crappy paternal problems to deal with) but with the arrival of our son, I am going to have to be a little more active.

So here's what's bugging me. The half-sister is getting married this weekend. You would think that owning one of the better restaurants in the area we might have been called upon to provide some service for this event. I would think so. However, not only only are we going to be sitting down to a rehearsal dinner tonight, at someone else's restaurant, when we should be tending our own, and tomorrow eating food prepared by another caterer, we weren't even asked. Is the GM one of the bridesmaids, or even a part of the wedding party? No.

Now the devil's advocate might say the bride and groom didn't want to presume upon a familial relationship. And that may be the case. But I can count on one hand the number of times the half sister-in-law has been to our restaurant of her own accord. That is, not as part of a large family gathering. One hand, nearly eight years. On the other hand the GM and I have gone out of our way to support her, buying her crappy hippie beads as gifts for the crew, sending business her way, the GM acting as shill at craft fairs...etc.

Now maybe she doesn't like our restaurant. I'd have to say she definitely doesn't like our restaurant given the frequency of her visits. Fine. Just tell us so. There are always areas where we can improve. Instead she is always lavish with the praise and liberal doses of telling the GM she loves her and she's so proud of her.

Does this sound like sour grapes? It is. Beyond the often complicated family land mines, does this woman realize what kind of a message it sends in a small town when your sister owns a restaurant and catering operation and she is not involved in any way in your wedding?

I'm tired of the pretense. At the vet the other day, when the receptionist said "Oh, I've known the half-sister for years. I didn't know she had a sister." I nearly replied, "Neither does she." But I held my tongue. The GM and I have navigated these waters for years, but I'd like better answers for my son about why his aunt and grandfather are so distant. Hell, she's only seen him one time (at the hospital) in the 9 weeks he's been here.

Sorry to be so bitter. I'm just not looking forward to dinner tonight. I don't want to say anything because I want her to have a wonderful, beautiful rehearsal dinner and wedding. But I'm not sure how to respond when someone at the table (and someone will) brings up our restaurant and says, "not as good as yours", or something along those lines.

Life is Good, Unfortunately

Long ago, really long ago, when I thought I might be able to write for a living I read, in one of the many manuals I read to keep any actual writing from happening, that happy stories are boring ones. The case given was high school sweethearts marry, go off to college together, graduate with honors, get fulfilling careers in the same town, have two perfect children and die peacefully in each others arms at a ripe old age. A great story to live, but not much fun to read.

And such it is with restaurant life at the moment. The dramas that have been swirling around are past, at least for me, the customers have been good as far as I can tell and the staff working well, except for an unfortunate mix-up with some friends of ours. I cried tears of joy, for the first time in my life, while dancing to Elvis Costello with my son. Even my insane landlord has given me a document that looks like an extension of my lease for 10 years after the current one expires. So, I've got little to write about, except to express gratitude that things are for the moment going swimmingly.

Meeting with friends about to open their own place was an eye-opener in terms of how far we've come. We're able to go off to SF for a few days each month, the GM is able to stay home with our beautiful son and I've been able to leave early to spend time with both of them. This was definitely not always the case and I fell really lucky that we're able to take these things for granted now.

Plus, fall is definitely arriving. I always feel more alive and in love with the world in fall than any other time of year. I brought in some rabbits and lamb shoulder and we've got a good source for hook and line ling cod. Our vintner friends are getting ready to bring in the harvest. Life is good.

The Dangling Conversation

I realize I've posted about a number of things on this blog and then just left them hanging. So, this is to tie up loose ends.

Of our new hires, one is already gone. The one we thought would be the workhorse. This is fine, she's also the one who didn't quite fit in. Of the other two, the wild card is proving to be the most capable although she has a few bad habits from other jobs. I keep reminding her and she'll get it. After this weekend we will be instituting a written test for front of house staff. With the GM at home there isn't as much supervision and guidance as there needs to be and we've realized some things we take for granted that the waiters know, they don't.

The asshole farmer has never called me. For that matter I haven't called him. I guess he got the message when the orders stopped coming or someone guided him to this post because he stopped sending price lists almost immediately after I wrote it. I'm sad the relationship ended on a sour note but it's worked out well. I'm now buying from a wider network of local growers. In fact growers who are a bit more local than this guy.

You'll notice I haven't mentioned the recirculator. That's because it's been too busy and there's been too much general drama to explore it's uses. However, I do have a bunch of pork belly that's had a quick salt/sugar cure along with some rosemary and oregano, sous-viding away right now. We'll serve it tonight with some mustard greens and maybe a South Carolina style (mustardy and vinegary) BBQ.

The new crew member is great. He's growing, doing all the things babies are supposed to do and thus far, sleeping well and having pity on his older parents.

The lunatic family sent me a check. I sent them a receipt. Hopefully that will be the end of it.

Labor Day weekend is still upon us. Nothing insane has happened thus far. I'm worried.

Ceci n'est pas une food blog

It seems that besides my best intentions to write about food, other things in my life are consistently more interesting fodder than letting you know we are changing our duck preparation to Creole spiced Liberty Farm duck breast with dirty rice risotto.

Those of you who have done logic problems with statements like Peter is taller than Fred but shorter than Mike, and Fred has red hair, by which you are supposed to figure out how tall each guy is and what color hair he has, might be able to follow the following genealogy.

You may remember I have a bunch of Mayans working for me. You may remember one of them came to me recently with unpleasant revelations about his wife. The players are a father/son team, C. Jr and C. Sr. Sr washes dishes and Jr is a talented line cook. We then have C Sr's brother-in-law A who washes dishes. We also have C Jr's cousin L. (whose brother J. used to work for us and is currently in jail in San Rafael after being busted with cocaine), and C Jr's other cousin W. who is also L.'s brother-in-law (L being married to W's sister). Confused? I thought so.

L is the one with the wayward wife who needed to take some time off to spend with his son. He and his son stopped by 2 days ago with a gift for our new boy. They both looked happy and it was clear as it always is how devoted the boy is to his dad.

Yesterday L called me to tell me his wife had gone to the school, lied to the teacher that the boy had a doctor's appointment and then she, her brother-in-law W and his girlfriend went to L's house and took all the boy's clothes. When L called the police he was told there was nothing he could do because his wife was the one who took the stuff. She evidently then went to a local organization that helps people extricate themselves from difficult situations. L had gone there a month and half ago asking for help in his dilemma with his wife, and got no help. Yesterday, they told him he can't see his son. So evidently they don't help all people, just women. Which is fine, but they need to be clear about that in the community. The GM had been asked to join their board but with a new child she wasn't sure about timing. She's now giving it a little more thought.

He had called me because he needed help with court paperwork. Unfortunately I wasn't around all day because my mother-in-law is in town and we were visiting with her. When I did reach him, he said he figured out the paperwork and they are supposed to appear in court today at 1:30. I told him I would stop by the organization's offices this morning to see if I could find out a little more about what's happening.

Now I am not eager to hop into a domestic dispute. Being in that situation never turns out well and I only know his side of the story which is his wife doesn't take very good care of the child or the home. This is corroborated by other people I know and neither the GM or I have a good feeling about the wife. I'm relatively sure L is not physically abusive with either his wife or child but anything is possible. So I do want to help L without getting too entangled in his drama.

Where my problem lies is with W. He's really good at his job. He learns quickly and is eager to take on new tasks. When he is at work he's pleasant and easy to get along with. His morals however are troublesome. He was a police officer in Mexico and freely admits to being corrupt. He has a wife and at least one child (I'm not clear if he has others with other women, I think so) in Mexico and lives with his girlfriend and step-child here. I have heard that unlike many other Mexicans working here he's not doing much in the providing for his family back home department. I have also heard he's planning on leaving his girlfriend to go home to Mexico. I told him if he planned on leaving, please do it after Labor Day weekend and please don't do it until I had someone trained to take his place. He and his girlfriend are perpetually breaking up and getting back together and I'll believe he's leaving when I go to work and he's not there.

L is really upset that W helped take his son's belongings. W is working tonight. I'm not sure what, if anything to say to him. It's definitely not my problem but I doubt the evening will pass without remarking on the situation.

People's personal conduct is always a dilemma for me as an employer. On the one hand what people do on their own time is none of my business. On the other, I'd be uncomfortable if one of my employees was say, a Klan member. I feel like by not letting people know how I feel about their conduct, I'm tacitly supporting their behavior, whether it's seeing the active alcoholic engage their disease or the sexual peccadilloes of another when their boyfriend is out of town. Not that I have much moral ground to stand on. I've done my share and then some of actions which run counter to my morals. But I'm not sure how much of their actions I take on when I am silent. I can't fire someone for being a Republican but I don't have to be quiet about letting them know they're misguided.

So, I'll sally forth into Labor Day. We've got a leg of lamb, a ribeye and some pork belly coming in. The 3 day weekends are sometime a crapshoot for us. Much of our clientele is local and they tend to hide when the out of towner's descend en masse. So we end up being just slightly busier than normal and wind up with a lot of food to use up. The good news is that the locals usually come out on Monday and Tuesday so we do good numbers for those days. This year though we've been up 5% from last year and we were busy last year. I think we may set a record this weekend.

Next weekend we've got a big charity event where we have to give away a lot of food. I'm still trying to think of what we'll serve. I'm thinking about some sort of vegetable dessert involving tomatoes and candied corn.