Knife's Edge - Restaurant Rants & Raves

Fumbling in the Dark

Serving 165 people is usually a good, rollicking night for us. Serving 165 people when we don't have power is something entirely different.

Years ago, lengthy power outages in our area were commonplace. At least two or three times per year, we would be without power for a minimum of a day or so. When I cooked my audition meal for the place that brought me up here, we had a power outage. When the GM and I were trying to shake the dust of this place off our heels, power was out. After PG&E was hit with hefty fines for poor maintenance of equipment and lines however, the outages stopped coming with such frequency, and in recent years have lasted merely hours.

When the juice went off about 2am Wednesday and didn't go on in a couple of hours. I knew we were in trouble. The wind had been howling all night. Later I heard reports of 60mph. I thought of the massive meat order we had received in preparation for New Year's Eve.

In times like these, I'm glad for small-town life. My father-in-law brought me a small generator to power the reach-ins on the line. My contractor neighbor brought me 2 generators, one powering some lights in the kitchen, one sort of powering the walk-in. We pulled out more candles and flashlights, I built the first fire we've had at home for two or three years and stopped by the local radio station so they could announce that we'd open at 2pm to serve a late lunch.

Our years of training people that we are open for dinner only has worked. We did only a few tables between 2-5. It was just nice to have a place for our staff to congregate and be with other people, doing something, rather than sitting their cold and powerless homes.

We worked on a limited menu, focusing on the more perishable items and on preparations that produced less smoke. No grilling. We managed to serve most of the items on our menu. And serve we did. It was chaotic, our weakest waiter was somehow in the most difficult section but everyone pulled through, albeit roughly.

I stayed until 2am to help the dishwasher. We switched the power from the walk-in to the dish machine nearing the end of service so we could attack the mountain of plates, cups, scorched pans, butter ramekins and flatware that was piled up. I gassed up the generator and left, after hearing reports from PG&E that they expected power to be restored between 7-9pm the following day.

The whine of an external hard drive woke me up. Glorious day, we had lights. I hustled down to the restaurant and met Mr Buttcrack, the fridge mechanic who had wired up the generator to our panel. We got everything back onto PG&E's grid and I assessed the damage. Not too bad. The only thing we had to toss was some pork skin in the freezer and two small slabs of curing pork belly.

We gave our staff ample rewards for giving their very best. All that cultivating of a family atmosphere and supportive work environment paid off. Everyone who was on the schedule showed, save one busser who had a plausible excuse about being stuck behind downed trees, and people who weren't on the schedule came to lend a hand, including one former waiter who is back working with us during her school break of 5 weeks.

Our outlying areas were still without power last night. I haven't yet checked reports. We had a birthday table last night, linger and linger. Knowing they were going home to a dark place helped us keep a good humor about staying later than we should. Well, that and that they are really good customers.

Two nights ago The Sardine crawled about 6 inches. And I thought the power outage was going to keep me running.

Upwards & Onwards

Those of you who look at what books I've recently read will see I just finished "Restaurant Financial Basics". Considering we're entering our 8th year of operations I either didn't need to read it, or should have done it a long time ago. I bought the book for the GM about 2 years ago, and she expressed no interest in reading it, so it sat on the shelf. Now that more of her time is directed toward the Sardine and more of mine directed on pursuits beyond the kitchen, I thought it would be useful to review how we deal with the money.

The biggest reinforcement I got from the book is in the "Pricing for Profit" chapter. My hippie upbringing has produced a deep distrust of profit and I tend to view it as something that a corporation like DeBeers has wrenched from the backs of near slave labor rather than a desirable goal for my business. I know what our costs should be, based on industry averages and standards, and if we were meeting those costs, well then, we're making money right? Things like cash flow held little meaning for me until the day came when on paper we did fine but I had no cash to pay the taxes.

Starting now, I will view profit as my paycheck. This isn't a concept from the book, this is my own interpretation. The part of me that is resistant to the term profit, is fine with getting a paycheck, earning a living, bringing home the bacon. I guess I see myself as a worker, not an owner. And while it would be better to just deal with the fact that I am an owner, if it takes this terminology deceit to make sure I can pay my bills, so be it.

To this end I've been reviewing all our systems, seeing where we can improve. This past year, my attempt to lower our food cost has paid off. I set a goal for food cost and a target for spending, based on our average number of covers. Then had the cooks post the vendor invoice totals on a dry erase board in the kitchen. It doesn't look like we'll achieve our year end goal but we will come really close and we did cut the cost by 2%.

I predict we will hit our targets next year because after tracking this in 2006 I saw we had made our target 4 times in the past year. I gave a bonus based on those months to the cooks who do the ordering in my absence and explained how a bonus in the coming year would work.

It was also illuminating to put a dollar amount to a 1% increase in costs. Close to $6000. A 2.5% increase in cost of goods doesn't sound like much, but $15,000 is a number that gets some attention.

The good news is most of our costs are in line with where they should be. The other good news is that I've been thinking about this for a while now, and the GM and I are actually working on a marketing plan, and a budget for next year. Our plan thus far has been more along the line of "Oh shit, Mother's Day is next week. What are we gonna do?" I'm having fun with the planning part because I like to talk (and go on and on). I think the GM is having less fun but I'm hoping she'll get in the spirit.

As friends of mine wrote this year- Happy non-denominational yet deeply respectful of whatever your particular religious or non-religious take on the human condition is Days! Peace be with you. (Unless that's not your thing).

Chowhound Sucks

But you knew that already. In tracking links to our website, there have been a few consistent threads where we're referenced and those I've followed, but only a few days ago decided to see what else might be on the site. Almost everything is positive but there is one post that records a possible negative experience. I say possible because there is another restaurant in the area with a similar enough name that we've received deliveries for them and vice versa. Plus, the situation described doesn't match our current staffing etc.

I replied to the posting, asking when the person dined with us and asking for the opportunity to make things right. The posting was removed, and I posted again. This time it was removed and the following was sent: "Sorry, but Chowhound is not a balanced discussion between consumers and restaurants. It is a consumer resource. It is not a venue for you or any other restaurateur to do
customer service."

To which I replied: "If that's the case how can I ensure the information on Chowhound is accurate?
Given the post I was responding to it seems the person (xxx) has us confused with a restaurant in the area with a similar name.
Consumer resources should include an arena for businesses to respond to and correct any problems, particularly when the problem stated is vague (poor service) vs specific (my chicken was overcooked)."

Their response: "Yes, we totally understand your feeling. It's frustrating not to be able to answer
back and make your case, and it feels unbalanced that you're not allowed to, we know. But, as an eater (rather than as a pro), you'd surely prefer a resource where commercial parties are not allowed to self-tout and spin control.  There aren't many level playing fields where consumers can swap opinions, though there are many places for restaurants to air their messages. So while what we do seems to lack balance, Chowhound does offer a balance (i.e. to marketing, etc) in the larger view."

Back at them: "There's a difference between self-touting/spin control and having an honest concern that a customer left unhappy. As an owner I want people to have good time. In this instance I am not so much worried about protecting our reputation as I am resolving a (possible) complaint or misunderstanding with a particular customer.  No one registered any complaint with management, because I am it. If I am not given the opportunity to resolve a complaint XXX should not be given the
opportunity to air a complaint and say that management was non-responsive.

As you point out I am also a consumer. Given your policy I cannot trust the information on Chowhound as anyone can post whatever spurious information they choose (as long as they are "eaters").

I understand your policies and disagree with them. Many bloggers have also registered their disappointment with Chowhound's arbitrary removal of posts."

To which I got no response.

This bullshit about "There aren't many level playing fields where consumers can swap opinions, though there are many places for restaurants to air their messages." is ludicrous. There has never been a greater number of avenues for consumers to swap opinions. The more responsible of the sites allow for a response from management.

Obviously, the solution is to never have an unhappy customer. That's definitely our goal. When I'm on the floor I try to head off any possible problems, as do our waiters, bussers and cooks. On the bottom of the receipt we have a line that tells diners "If you had a good time tell your friends. If you didn't, tell us." We don't want people leaving unhappy. We will fix the problem, whatever it may be.

It's infuriating for people to publish opinions and have no opportunity to respond. It's infuriating for people to bitch about a problem we were never given the chance to correct. People are soooo weird about food and service. If you have a problem or concern, let management know. While you are there. That way they can fix it. If you don't, at least have give the courtesy of a phone call or letter.

If management is non-responsive, by all means, let 'em have it. If you have a dispute with a credit card charge, the policy of the card company is to contact the merchant and try to resolve the situation to determine whether the charge is valid. If the merchant is non-responsive, or if the charge is incorrect, the charge is indeed removed. Apply the same logic to resolving other consumer complaints. If the issue isn't resolved, then make the video to post on YouTube about how bad your experience was. Not before.

You Should Write a Cookbook

The GM often says. Reading the Cafe Pongo cookbook I'm reminded of all the reasons I don't. The book embodies everything I fear about a cookbook I might write. Like us, they are in a rural area, a local favorite that's been "discovered" by tourists. They have affordable prices and are cooking food far from the avant-garde. I'm sure the restaurant is charming and I have no doubt the food is good.

The book however is amateurish, the writing poor and the dishes if not boring, are more what I would turn to the Joy of Cooking for. If it were self-published it might be a nice memento for someone who's visited the restaurant and wants to take a piece of it home. But Simon & Schuster put this out. In the text the author thanks the Simon & Schuster editor and friend of the house who made the book happen.

The book has nothing to say other than "Hey, I've got a quaint restaurant in the Hudson Valley." And that's exactly what I wouldn't want a book with my name on it to say.

However, I have been, since we opened, readying recipes, adjusting amounts for home use and thinking about what I'd like to say. This blog was intended to be a testing ground for my desire and ability to write. Increasingly though I've spent little time on writing, both on the number of posts as well as the content. I've reverted to a more anecdotal, prosaic style. "Just the facts ma'am".

I over commit.  And details get dropped. Little things go undone. With the GM doing the most important work either of us could be doing (mostly) at home with our son things have been unraveling a little bit. Last night trying to get home after a busy for the season night, every time I turned around there was another little thing looking at me. I finally had to leave, deciding to finish this morning, even though we're getting ready to leave for SF.

Menus to change and print, special party instructions to give to the staff, changes to the POS,  instructions to the new dishwasher, who not only doesn't read at all, can barely speak Spanish. My Mayan only extends to some dirty words and few other phrases like "nica hana" (come to eat). He'll get one more weekend and if he doesn't improve we'll have to say hasta la vista. Wine to inventory, art to deliver to SF, and can I tell you my office is a crappy mess? I need bookshelves badly. And soon. Our son is almost mobile and then forget it. I'm already envisioning pages flying out my Art Culinaire's.

So in keeping with the frenetic pace I set for myself, I've got to go. It's true I should write a cookbook and maybe one day I will. First though I've got to get someone with Simon & Schuster to fall in love with our quaint restaurant.

Volunteers

Paid and otherwise.

In lieu of actually posting I'm putting out a couple of calls for help.

The first is a paid gig. My farmer friend who severely injured his hand needs a farm manager for the upcoming season. The basic info is:

Diversified production includes pastured pigs, 25 sheep, a year-round market garden, and a one-acre vineyard. We are seeking a replacement farm manager to begin as soon as possible, who will work closely with the business manager and garden manager, and have primary responsibility for the maintenance of all farm infrastructures and animal husbandry. Housing, partial board and salary provided.

Interested parties should email me directly.

The second is a non-paid thing. We are participating in this year's ZAP festival at Fort Mason. We're doing food on Thursday, January 25th and I need a couple volunteers to help me at the event. You do  get free tickets, so if Zinfandel is your thing and you're presentable, articulate and willing to give a chef a hand, email me for the particulars.