Knife's Edge - Restaurant Rants & Raves

(I'm Always Touched by Your) Presence Dear

We just returned from a few days dining in SF and were reminded how much difference a caring managerial presence makes.

At Citizen Cake, the absence of their former manager was noticeable throughout the dining room. We asked after her when the meal was over and was told that she was moving to the East Coast and was waiting tables somewhere else but our waiter wasn't sure where. The service we experienced wasn't horrendous, just sloppy and neglectful. Chatting with co-workers rather than attending to the tables, and a return of the attitude that almost kept us from returning quite some time ago.

For our last meal we decided to try A16. In contrast, they were extremely welcoming, helpful with The Sardine, and as we were being taken to our table we saw the former Citizen Cake manager. She was waiting there until her move to Charleston, SC, later this year. When we told her about our experience at her former digs, she said "I hate to hear that. That kills me." She was also quick to point out that it wasn't just her, that lot of people left at the same time, and that the whole team is responsible for the experience.

Presence on the floor is crucial. How to get others to maintain that presence when the owner is gone or the manager is absent is the Holy Grail of the restaurateur.

Cooking by the Numbers

This summer I've had a problem with cooks overcooking meat and fish. Actually, one in particular. After spending time with him in the kitchen I understood that part of the reason is that he likes his own food well done. The GM, who also likes things well done, suggested printing pictures. So I found some decent pictures of steak cross sections, along with temperatures, which seem to have worked out.

The fish is another problem. I just have to keep working with this person, telling him "We can always cook it more, never less." It's tough for him I know, because I also am adamant that the food come up quickly when it's been fired, so timing can be difficult.

Training and motivating staff is one of the biggest issues most restaurants, particularly those outside of metropolitan areas face. Once you get out of the city, finding kitchen staff that actually are interested in cooking is difficult. Most kitchens are staffed by people who, while they might have achieved some technical proficiency because they have done it long enough, don't have the spark of a committed cook. I suppose most businesses period, are staffed by people who are working only because they have to, and while they might be decent at their job, don't have a real passion for what they're doing.

I'm Back

Apart from The Sardine, whose continuing development and adventures are keeping me endlessly occupied, I haven't written because I've been on the other side of the counter for a long time. Just relating to customers every night is taxing for me, and though I can do it, it's not my strength. Plus, there's less to write about, except for the occasional insane person who does their best to make me insane as well. I'm more interested in food and cooking.

(Un)Fortunately, I've been back in the kitchen lately. A series of very unfortunate events, none directly involving me, has befallen some of my kitchen crew and we've had quite a shake-up. Consequently, I've been working the line. I love and hate it. I love doing it, I love the action and the satisfaction from a job well done. I hate that I have to do it in these circumstances. It does feel good to be using those skills though.

We just hired someone that I am hoping will be a good fit, either sous chef or chef de cuisine. We'll see how he works out. He's been the chef of a larger operation locally and has experience with volume. I wasn't impressed with the other place, but I know he was operating under a lot of management strictures and I'll be interested to see what he can do in a freer, saner environment. At the very least, he should be able to free me from ordering, scheduling, and some of those tasks, so I can work on developing new things and techniques.

I had a classmate from culinary school visit recently. He works for Sodhexo, in a cook/chill facility for a university. We were talking about sous vide, which he does a lot of, and he said they don't actually pull a vacuum on anything. They just seal and cook in the bags, weighing them down with a cage. That alone opened up a lot of possibilities for my budget. I've wanted to do more sous vide, but haven't wanted to spring for the chamber vacuum sealer. Now, I just seal the things without the vacuum. I did a small wedding last weekend for 100 people and did the short ribs and chicken that way, as well as reheating the green beans and gnocchi in a water bath. Much easier to plate and clean-up.

So, I'm looking forward to more experimentation, and learning new things.